Employing retinoids is akin to cooking with cayenne pepper. You require the precise quantity to perceive the effects, but an excessive amount can overpower everything. Particularly for retinoid beginners, escalating a skincare routine with prescribed tretinoin (also known as retinoic acid or pure vitamin A, the active component in Retin-A) is much like leaping into a fiercely spicy chili – you might struggle to handle the intensity.
Despite its potential to cause irritation, tretinoin is the ultimate anti-aging wonder, precisely due to its verified strength. This versatile, cell-regulating agent is supported by several decades of peer-reviewed studies demonstrating its capacity to do everything from enhancing collagen growth to reducing sebum production and suppressing pigment formation. Nevertheless, all that effectiveness comes at a price: an irritating period of redness and flaking. This is what dermatologists refer to as retinization – the two- to three-week adjustment phase that the skin undergoes as it adapts to a retinoid.
This is where over-the-counter retinols come into play. They are a more gentle and kind retinoid, offering comparable benefits to Rx versions, remarks Dr. Joshua Zeichner, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. "Retinol and prescription tretinoin operate through the exact same mechanism and pathway within the skin," he elaborates.
A study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology comparing 0.1% retinol to 0.1% retinoic acid discovered that both substances increased the thickness of the epidermis and the expression of collagen genes after four weeks – and that the retinol significantly diminished wrinkles after 12 weeks.
Within the skin, retinol eventually converts into retinoic acid through a sequence of enzyme reactions. Because this conversion process demands time, you have to wait longer to observe results from retinol products, explains Dr. Zeichner. But on the positive side, the slower action of retinol causes less irritation.
"I am extremely fond of retinols. I believe they should be present in every topical product," states New York City board-certified dermatologist Dr. Michelle Henry. "It's challenging to find a patient for whom I wouldn't recommend them. There are now numerous formulations that allow me to introduce patients with even the most sensitive skin to retinol once a week to reap the benefits."
So, which ones can compete with the Rx-powered alternatives? Leading dermatologists and beauty editors share their choices.
Alastin Renewal Retinol ($55)
Dr. Papri Sarkar, a board-certified dermatologist in Brookline, Massachusetts, adores this serum as it contains varying concentrations of retinol encapsulated in a lipid that gradually releases the active component to limit irritation. She initiates patients with the 0.25% option and progresses them to the 0.5% version once they develop tolerance. Soothing oat extract, bisabolol, and hydroxymethoxyphenyl decanone counteract irritation.
Related: Retinol vs. Vitamin C for Skincare: Know the Difference and What’s Right for You
Alchimie Forever Advanced Retinol Serum ($99)
The 0.75% retinol complex is enveloped in a matrix designed to dissolve in the skin's sebum. This delivery system significantly slows the release of retinol, enabling a high level of the active ingredient with a reduced risk of irritation. Additional selling points, according to Dr. Tina Alster, a board-certified dermatologist in Washington D.C.: the blend incorporates hydrating hyaluronic acid to cushion the skin, and a proprietary mixture of soothing botanicals, including antioxidant green tea.
Differin Adapalene Gel 0.1% Acne Treatment ($12.99)
"In my view, this is the finest of the over-the-counter retinoids," states Dr. Shari Marchbein, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. It contains the retinoid adapalene, which is the first new active ingredient for acne treatment that's FDA-approved at prescription-strength since the 1980s.
CeraVe Renewing Retinol Serum ($16.99)
Three ceramides assist in strengthening the skin barrier to buffer against the irritating effects of retinol, making this concoction another favorite of Dr. Marchbein's. Niacinamide and licorice root safeguard against redness and inflammation
Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream ($74)
Despite being formulated with 1% pure retinol, this luxurious formula – a favorite of Dr. Henry – nurtures the skin with its lipid-rich base.
Olay Retinol 24 ($38.99)
Olay contains two retinoids – retinol and an even milder vitamin A derivative called retinyl propionate – and suspends them in oil droplets. According to Dr. Zeichner, retinyl propionate is one of the most tolerable forms of vitamin A as it must undergo three conversions to become retinoic acid – and the further a molecule is from retinoic acid in its natural state, the less likely it is to cause disturbance.
Related: How Dermatologists Recommend Treating Dry, Winter Skin
RoC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Night Cream ($24.99)
This renowned cream combines retinol with glycolic acid to enhance exfoliation for smoother, more youthful-looking skin, notes Cincinnati cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos. Minerals, squalane, and shea butter soothe the skin during the process.
Perricone MD Acne Relief Retinol Treatment & Moisturizer ($45)
Ruli Deputy Editor Alix Tunell noticed a significant improvement in her skin's radiance and overall tone after just one week of using this treatment. "It yields nearly the same results as a chemical peel, but it does dry out my forehead and cheeks, so now I apply a richer moisturizer on top and only apply it three times per week," she remarks.
SkinBetter Science AlphaRet Overnight Cream ($120)
Dr. Estee Williams, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, commends the engineering behind this award-winning formula. Ethyl lactyl retinoate – a hybrid molecule resulting from a complex fusion of a retinoid and lactic acid – gradually releases its active ingredients to maximize efficacy while curbing irritation. Added antioxidants, squalane, ceramides, and hyaluronic acid help make the blend less bothersome than traditional retinol and tretinoin, according to a company-sponsored study.
SkinMedica Retinol Complex 0.25 ($62)
Dr. Henry labels this cream as an ideal starting point for retinoids. The concentration of retinol is low enough that she is not concerned about it causing irritation, and the proprietary antioxidant complex envelopes the anti-ager to ensure gradual release.
Sobel Skin Rx 4.5% Retinol Night Treatment ($105)
Don't be intimidated by the 4.5% retinol percentage, even though over-the-counter products cap at 2%, says Tunell. This one is highly potent, but its proprietary encapsulated delivery system and soothing ingredients, including chamomile and shea butter, keep your skin protected from inflammation.
La Roche-Posay Effaclar Adapalene Gel 0.1% Topical Retinoid Acne Treatment ($29.99)
Dr. Evan Rieder, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, recommends this prescription-strength gel for its anti-aging benefits and ability to clear clogged pores, blackheads, and whiteheads.
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% in Squalane ($9.60)
Granactive retinoid is the trade name for hydroxypinacolone retinoate, which is the latest advancement in retinoids, according to Dobos. OTC retinoids typically need to be transformed into the active form, retinoic acid, in order to activate receptors in the skin and commence their beneficial work. But this one has been shown to interact directly without the need for initial breakdown. The lipid-rich base guarantees a smooth delivery.
